Adesso vogliono fregarci anche le aziende agricole...come ne caso dell'azienda agricola "Fragnite"....sita in agro di Ceglie Messapica è gestita da tre generazioni da cegliesi autentici... altro che OSTUNI dove fanno la mozzarella.... come descritto nell'articolo...
Ceglie Messapica's whitewashed streets contort around each other with geometric fury, a reflection in stone of the centuries-old olive trees whose sun-stunted trunks and twisted branches dominate the surrounding Valle d'Itria.
When wandering through the town's streets on the hunt for one of its enticing restaurants—Cibus, with its jug-shaped caciocavallo cheese hanging from rafters, or Vicolo della Felicità, with its joyous impromptu pizzicadance sessions—getting lost is practically a prerequisite.
A brief car ride to the edge of town, though, brings you to Ceglie's most highly regarded restaurant. On a plot of land studded with vines and gardens sits Al Fornello da Ricci (Contrada Montevicoli; 39-0831-377-104;www.ricciristor.com), a family restaurant whose blend of local culinary tradition and technical innovation is credited with putting the city's cooking on the map, both within Puglia and Italy. "My father was somewhat the precursor of Ceglie's cuisine," says current co-owner and chef Antonella Ricci. "He was very forward-thinking."
In Italy, you can find heaven on a plate in any town from the head to the heel, but it can be hard work. The geography of the Italian table is complex and full of subtle variations that make it hard to pinpoint the exact lineage of a dish and the history behind it—and ordering the right meal in the wrong town or at the wrong time can make for an unrewarding experience.
Now is a good time to take a trip through one of Italy's richest culinary breadbaskets—the south—on a journey to the roots of some of the country's most robust regional traditions. The recent addition of the Mediterranean diet to Unesco's World Heritage list provides the backdrop to explore the south, where the ingredients of that diet were first cataloged by American scientist Ancel Keys, who began his research there in the late 1950s. The resurgence of interest in the area's cuisine has bolstered the work of chefs and small-scale agricultural producers.
By picking a few regions, moving slowly and looking well outside the tourism-driven centers, you will find your way to hidden gems that unlock the secrets of local dishes.
My road to Ceglie started in Rome, at Agustarello (Via Giovanni Branca 100; 39-06-574-65-85), an unassuming space with a pervasive scent of roasting peppers in the middle of the Testaccio neighborhood. "A place for many," reads the menu, "but not for all." Serving Roman specialties since 1957, the restaurant comes highly recommended by local experts, but the catchphrase on the menu serves as warning to anyone with the nerve to try Testaccino cuisine. Nerve salad, in fact, is on the menu. So is cow tail alla cacciatora, as well as appetizers, including pecorino cheese with peppered bruschetta, that refer to the city's traditions and change according to the season.
DOMENICA 8 MAGGIO 2011.
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